Holidays in Spetses, the cosmopolitan island of the Saronic gulf
It is difficult to summarize Spetses in just a few words, it is known for its nightlife, its nautical tradition and the heroine of the Revolution Laskarina Bouboulina. It is not just a cosmopolitan destination but made to be cosmopolitan, and with white as a cycladic island, but with a different architecture, a patchwork of insular, arvanitic and Peloponnese coast. It attracts all ages from youth and couples to families and the elderly.
More about Spetses:
Although near Athens it takes you on a journey with its picturesqueness. With the statues of the heroes of 1821 it keeps the memories of the Greek Revolution alive, but they also make it a living museum where you can learn things about the Struggle.
The first contact is the port with people coming and going along with the sea taxis and boats. A spot for coffee and food with a view, full of vitality and a meeting point for visitors.
I have visited Spetses many times, I have associated it with pleasant memories with three being the reasons I love it: for the authentic island setting, the nights of frenetic fun but what I like most is that you have fun in small harbours next to illuminated pleasure boats which is something spectacular and unprecedented for me and for everyone.
Coffee with a view of the harbour
Below is a list of the hotels I recommend you to stay at:
- (€€) Armata Boutique Hotel (⭐ 9.5) a small elegant hotel that combines a pleasant atmosphere with island aesthetics. Located in a peaceful spot near the harbour, it also has a swimming pool
- (€€) Kastro Hotel (⭐ 9.5) in Kounoupitsa a hotel with very nice aesthetics and nice rooms to choose from. Also with a swimming pool and a nice area for coffee and snacks
- (€€€) Orloff Resort (⭐ 9.3) one of the top stay options, combining the simple luxury of Spetses with modern comforts and amenities
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Check below my suggestions for beach bars, clubs and desserts:
Beach bars
- Kaiki in Scholes beach is a youth hangout with loud music day and night. For coffee, cocktails, snacks, food and drinks. It serves a greek menu which is remarkable in both variety and taste but also Japanese with sashimi, nigiri sushi, sushi temai, maki sushi and rolls. It also offers water sports.
- Vrellos is a great beach with sun loungers and tables under the shade of pine trees. It serves coffee, natural juice, drinks, snacks, pinsa and cocktails.
- Aqua Marine in Scholes is a canteen with umbrella seats
Night life
- Spetses and a lively nightlife go together especially in the fairytale setting of the Old Harbour. I recommend 4 bars and clubs with timeless values, they may change their names year after year but the essence is the same. Bikini, Coconut, Honolulu and Guzel all in the Old Harbour. Bikini and Coconut are my favourites and I have spent many wild nights there.
Four more spots I suggest:
- Cielo Mar for any time of the day on a very nice balcony in Kounoupitsa by the sea, for coffee, drinks and snacks
- Alfi's for dessert and ice cream
- Anemos rooftop bar - restaurant near the Old Harbour
- Cine Marina the island's open-air cinema in Dapia
Almond macaroons
- you will find the traditional sweet with the characteristic almond flavour at Kardiasmenou, at the Vanilia pastry shop and at Politis
You should definitely walk the seaside street to the Old Harbour, if your legs can afford it, to see the small harbours, the Old Harbour, and continue to the grove to see the traditional carnagia and then the metal sculptures of Natalia Mela, the bust of the russian Admiral Orloff, instigator of the failed Revolution of 1770, as well as the statue of the burlotier Kosmas Barbatsis, the arsonist of the Turkish flagship in the naval battle of Spetses in 1822. There are also signs for everything so that you can be informed.
The seaside street has been named after the Spetsiotes who have fighted in naval battles
I should note that the seaside street has been named after the Spetsiotes who have fighted in naval battles and has been transformed into an open-air museum with busts and cannons.
The Poseidonio Hotel is the island's trademark, founded in 1914 by the benefactor of Spetses Sotirios Anargyros, with the aim of making Spetses a jet set destination something that it achieved and continues to this day.
Spetses has been the setting for greek and foreign films, the most famous of which is "Jenny Jenny" starring Jenny Karezi, Dionysis Papagiannopoulos, Lambros Konstantaras and Andreas Barkoulis. In recent years it has been the backdrop for two Netflix blockbusters.
The night of Armata is the greatest night of the island. There is a reenactment of the burning of the turkish flagship in the naval battle of Spetses, I have been there four times and I assure you that it is rather impressive, the burning and the fireworks show are worth it, after which the whole island is packed with people. Of course, it is more difficult to find a stay that day, alternatively you can find in Ermionida in Costa hotels.
The best time to visit the island is from April to October. For tourist peak and nightlife from mid-July to before the end of August. Due to its proximity to Piraeus it fills up the weekends.
How to get around
Cars are prohibited in Spetses. Motorbikes, bicycles and ATVs are available to rent. You can get to the beaches by bus, boat or sea taxi. I recommend being careful with motorbikes and carriages. There are many many motorbikes, while carriages do not have brakes and after the horse passes the wheel follows so be careful.
How to get there
It is connected daily to the Piraeus port from the E8 Argosaronic gate. For information about the gates, read my relevant article.
You can also go by road, but parking is a puzzle as you have to park in Ermionida. There are private parking lots in Costa but I believe the cost is significant. Do not park in the narrow streets of Costa as there are signs to not park and license plates are being removed, I have seen it and I do not wish it on anyone.
The Spetses Express boat departs from the Costa port every hour. There is also a ferry but I do not know whether it serves the public, the last time I went they told me that I could not board due to flammable cargo on the trucks.
Spetses
Another way and the most expensive is by sea taxi which you will use if you are in a hurry or late at night when there is no Spetses Express. I note that the price is per ride and not per person or per group. So share the ride with the other passengers even if you are strangers. You can also invite others to board with you even if you do not know them so that you can share the ride.
8 things you must do in Spetses
1. Bouboulina Museum
A top activity is a visit to the mansion of the heroine captain which has been converted into a museum. It was built in the late 18th century and transports you to the authentic atmosphere of the 19th century. The exhibitions include Bouboulina's personal belongings, such as weapons and documents, the original furnishings of the era, works of art as well as objects from her ships, giving an in-depth look into her life and activities. Admission is 10:00 - 14:00 and it is open in the afternoons except Mondays.
2. Romantic carriage ride
Many people choose to travel around Spetses on a horse-drawn carriage, taking this romantic ride from the Old Harbour to Kounoupitsa. So put yourself in this frame and keep the most beautiful memories of your holidays in Spetses.
3. To the beaches by boat
Swimming in Spetses means a day trip by boat, and this is what the Maria I and Buona Fortuna boats that depart from Dapia for Agioi Anargyrou - Agia Paraskevi - Zogeria take care of. So take advantage and combine your swim with a cruise.
4. Night life at the Old Port
Where the heart of nightlife beats discover a magical environment with bars, clubs and fast food restaurants lined up on one side, and illuminated boats on the other, a magical atmosphere that really won me over and was the reason I went to Spetses again and again. For movie buffs, Ed Harris has danced with Olivia Colman in the courtyard of the Bikini bar as part of the film "The Lost Daughter".
5. In the footsteps of Daniel Craig
Few people know that former James Bond Daniel Craig has set foot on the island for the filming of the movie "Knives Out 2". If you want to take a picture yourself at the places where Craig passed then read the article I wrote about the filming spots.
6. Almond macaroons
If you don't try the well-known almond macaroons it's like you never went to Spetses! No one can resist its taste and many visitors leave with a package of this dessert. The best almond macaroons are sold at Kardiasmenou, at the Vanilia pastry shop and at Politis.
7. Spetses Museum
It is housed in the mansion of Hadjigiannis Mexis, a lord during the years of the Struggle, a building from the late 18th century. In its exhibitions it houses objects from the history of Spetses from antiquity to the Struggle.
8. Mansion of Sotirios Anargyros
Although it is not open to the public it is such a special mansion that it is worth seeing even outside the fence in its current condition. It belonged to Sotirios Anargyros, a Spetses native and a major tobacco industrialist in America at the end of the 19th century. He eventually returned to Spetses where he built his mansion in 1903. It has been abandoned for decades because no viable way of restoring it has been found. Opposite the mansion, in the small square, there is a statue of Sotirios Anargyros.
Below is a list of the hotels I recommend you to stay at:
- (€€) Armata Boutique Hotel (⭐ 9.5) a small elegant hotel that combines a pleasant atmosphere with island aesthetics. Located in a peaceful spot near the harbour, it also has a swimming pool
- (€€) Kastro Hotel (⭐ 9.5) in Kounoupitsa a hotel with very nice aesthetics and nice rooms to choose from. Also with a swimming pool and a nice area for coffee and snacks
- (€€€) Orloff Resort (⭐ 9.3) one of the top stay options, combining the simple luxury of Spetses with modern comforts and amenities
Search for hotel deals in Spetses
Where to eat in Spetses - the 9 best restaurants
1. Patralis Fish Tavern
The most well-known fish tavern is located in Kounoupitsa area since 1935 and has been passed down from father to son and grandchildren. It is known for its well-cooked food and of course for its fresh fish. Specialties include atherina, crayfish tail spaghetti, tuna rigatoni, but also steamed mussels, grilled sardines and cuttlefish risotto. It is the number one choice for food on the island and everything you need for your ouzo.
2. Portes
On the way to the Old Harbour you will come across a white building that stands out from the others and you obviously expect it to be something different just from the picture. I ate beef carpaccio, chicken ballotine, gnocchi, pork c heeks and the pistachio tiramisu. The carpaccio was fresh, the ballotine a dream with a fantastic parmesan sauce with truffle, the cheeks did not need a knife to cut them since they melted in your mouth. Interesting dishes are also the lobster pasta, the octopus with fava beans and truffle and the seafood pastitsio.
3. Mouragio
In the Old Harbour in a courtyard in the sea next to boats, choose it for gourmet greek cuisine with a fantastic view. Specialties include shrimp spaghetti, tsiros, shrimp, steamed mussels, fish ala spetsiota and crayfish risotto.
4. Liotrivi
a pier in the sea in the Old Harbour in an idyllic spot with a breathtaking view. Choose it for creative greek cuisine with fresh ingredients. Specialties include spaghetti with clams, sea bass fillet, seafood barley soup, shrimp linguine and lobster pasta.
5. Nero tis Agapis
on the sea of Kounoupitsa, visit it for small but good dishes made with fresh ingredients and beautiful presentations. The top dish that everyone orders is the mullet pasta (linguine with mullet). Excellent dishes include fresh fish tartare, shrimp kataifi, spaghetti with vongole and sea bass ceviche.
6. Kafenion
a small restaurant for ouzo snacks in the harbour in a spot so busy that there is no way you would notice it and you would not expect it to be of such good quality. Everything is well cooked, with good ingredients and attention to detail. It offers traditional flavours such as calamari and octopus, while the top choice is the smoked mackerel with ouzo.
7. Akrogialia
in Kounoupitsa, where the waves crash on the tables is the perfect spot to enjoy your ouzo. It serves simple and delicious dishes such as fish soup, linguine with mussels, shrimp spaghetti with white sauce. Also ask for fresh fish of the day and dish of the day.
8. Bouboulina
It is located on the seaside street overlooking the sea at a crossing point. Choose it to eat traditional dishes with seafood spaghetti but also meat or olive oil. Specialties are fish ala spetsiota, shrimp spaghetti, spaghetti with mussels and shrimp risotto. Grilled mylokopi and filleted sea bream are also very good choices.
9. Kapelogiannis
The tables on the pier create a magical atmosphere with a view of the yachts in the ever charming Old Harbour. It offers excellent fish appetizers with attention to detail such as grilled sardines, tuna tagliatelle, crayfish barley soup and sea urchin pasta. All traditional, all delicious.
