Excursion to Monemvasia, the jewel of Peloponnese
The square with the cannon
Monemvasia castle-state takes you on a journey through time, to a world of cosmopolitan sophistication and romance taken from Byzantium. It is one of the most recognizable spots in the Peloponnese.
The main gate gives a first idea of what you will see when you pass it, which are the cobblestones, the ocher colored mansions with tiled roofs and of course the many, many churches.
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My opinion is that you should visit Monemvasia at least once in your life. I have visited it 4 times and each time is like the first.
The main gate
Everything is concentrated in the central cobbled street, from tourist souvenir shops to eateries and cafes. Very narrow, but it crosses the walled city from end to end. In the square with the cannon, take photos with the wonderful view of the Myrtoon sea on one side and the Upper Town and the bell tower on the other. Of course you can also take a photo with the cannon, it looks insignificant in the beauty of the square but it is worth a photo. There is the Byzantine Church of Elkomenos Hristos and the archaeological museum, two of the most important attractions.
Chrysafitissa square
The next stop is the square of Panagia Chrysafitissa which is the largest square, with an unobstructed view of the rock and the sea. At this point you can approach the walls to explore them up close and see the sea below. The decoration of the square includes cannon balls. At the time I was there the church was getting ready for a wedding and I happened to meet the bride and the groom at the central gate and I can say that it is quite a romantic sight.
There are two more spots worth visiting. The much-photographed Malvasia cafe with the typical olive tree and the awesome view towards Myrtoon and Portelo beach. This is not a beach in the classic sense but a rocky shore where you dive in, the southern gate at the base of the wall leads there. If you like hiking you must also visit theUpper Town.
In Malvasia cafe
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The history of Monemvasia, however, reaches the 20th century because the poet Giannis Ritsos was born and spent his childhood there. His ancestral home is above the gate of the Lower City and I suggest you to visit it.
How many days?
Two to three days are enough to see all the sights and take a leisurely tour of the castle. For more days you can combine it with excursions to nearby destinations of Laconia such as Plytra, Elafonissos and Kastania cave.
A destination for all seasons
Such destinations are not strictly summer, it is better to go in autumn or spring to walk comfortably without suffering from the heat. In winter it is considerably quieter with sunny and festive days attracting crowds.
The central cobblestone
How to get there
It is about 4½ hours from Athens. Read the article how to get to Sparta and the destinations of Laconia. The intercity bus of Laconia goes there with routes from Athens and Sparta. For timetables you must contact the intercity buses of Laconia.
Parking
There is no parking lot at Monemvasia rock. Cars park along the road leading to the gate (on the one side only). At the gate you can turn around, so you can leave your friends there and look for a seat afterwards. There is parking only in Nea Monemvasia, which is quite far.
Historical background
The medieval castle town was an administrative center, the seat of church officials, a port of strategic importance and an important commercial station that was for centuries a pole of attraction for conquerors and pirates.
It was a sea-kingdom city with dynamic personalities and a strong local church that played an important role in the politics of the Byzantine Empire. After the fall of the Despotate of Morea to the Ottomans, it continued its course under foreign rule, sometimes Venetian and sometimes Ottoman. The familiarity of the people of Monemvasia with different cultural origins and traditions contributed to the diversity and cosmopolitan character of the city which is reflected in the architecture and art.
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It was founded in the 6th century AD during the Byzantine Empire. In 1248 or 1252/3 it was conquered by Julien II Villeardouin, ruler of the Frankish principality of Achaia after a long siege. In 1262 it was granted by the Frankish prince to the Emperor Michael VIII Palaiologos in exchange for his freedom. Since 1348 it has been under the Despotate of Morea. After the dissolution of the Byzantine Empire, from 1460 to 1821 it passed into the hands of the Ottomans and the Venetians. In 1821, the Ottomans handed over the castle to Alexandros Kantakouzinos, Dimitrios Ypsilantis' proxy.
