Small Cyclades guide - Map
In this guide I present the less secular side of the Cyclades, because they are so touristy that we ignore there are islands that are out of the mass tourism. These are four small and deserted islands between Naxos and Amorgos, Koufonisia, Donousa, Schinoussa and Iraklia. In this guide you will learn everything you need to know to spend your holidays there perfectly.
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1. Koufonisia
A different landscape in the Aegean, heavenly with golden sandy beaches in magical colours that compose an exception to the rocky landscape of the Cyclades. Thanks to its beauty it is the most well-known island of the complex and of course has developed into a popular destination for young people and not only.
It has one settlement, a picturesque Chora with cycladic architecture and a golden sandy beach for visitors to easily have a swim. The beaches are lined up in a row with easy access and shallow waters suitable for children. You can go by boat or hiking along the trail. Another plus is that there are no umbrellas taking up space.
The largest beach, Pori, is so exotic that you think you are in some other distant ocean. A must-do is the excursion to Kato Koufonisi for swimming in a pristine landscape without human presence and stop for lunch at Finikas on the beach of the same name.
Pori, the best beach in Koufonisia
As a popular destination it also has a satisfying nightlife with three bars: Koufochorio in a narrow alley, Sorokos on the beach and Mylos with the amazing view and magical atmosphere.
The best restaurants are:
- Mikres Kyklades flavours that smell Aegean, with few dishes but so special. Specialities are sea bream schnitzel, shrimp ravioli, sea bass carpaccio, grilled grouper while the fava is delicious
- Fistiki delicious handmade ice cream with the better taste being pistachio. You can't go to Koufonisia and not visit it!
- Laska creative cuisine with pure ingredients on a balcony overlooking the sea. Specialties include seafood linguine, green garlic salad, shrimp risotto, fish carpaccio with truffle and shrimp with orzo giouvetsi
- Venetsanos an authentic tavern in an old building in the deserted Kato Koufonisi, the boat takes you there as part of the excursion. Despite its isolation it has several choices of fish, local meats and offers traditional appetizers with local vegetables. Although the only tavern on the island is quite economical
The hotels I recommend in Koufonisia are:
- (€€) Portes Houses (⭐ 9.4) spacious rooms with a courtyard in a wonderful and peaceful location with sea view, close to both Chora and Finikas beach. It also has a swimming pool
- (€€) Atlántida Htel (⭐ 8.1) in a central location although central is a relative term in Koufonisia. Also affordable for the island's standards
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Read more on the travel guide about Koufonisia
2. Donousa
The locals call it Donousa Magissa (witch) and once you get to know it you will understand why it enchants visitors. The village embraces an amazing sandy beach and this sight is like a small paradise. The sandy beaches are golden and it is no coincidence that Kedros has been included in the list of the american magazine Forbes with the 8 best beaches in the world for 2018.
The access to the beaches is by boat and is an opportunity to tour the coast. It stops at Fokospilia cave with amazing blue waters that is worth a swim. The island is also suitable for hiking since it has marked trails.
The best taverns are:
- Avli creative cuisine with apt flavour combinations, even traditional dishes have gourmet touches. Specialties include dried mackerel with eggplant, anchovy fillet and shrimp with beetroot sauce. It also has a sea view
- Mitsos Tavern in Kalotaritissa, a traditional tavern for homemade food after a swim so you can leave the beach full. Specialties include burgers and ribs
- Iliovasilema in a prime location with a sea view and the best time in sunset. It offers excellent food prepared with local ingredients. Specialties include goat and rabbit slow-cooked with tomato sauce. Also octopus, eggplant salad, tzatziki, fried sardines, zucchini meatballs, peppers stuffed with feta are delicious
The hotels I recommend in Donousa are:
- (€€) Agave Donoussa Suites (⭐ 9.7) simple and with modern design rooms with an emphasis on detail that combine high aesthetics with the natural beauty of the landscape. With a spectacular view of Chora
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Read more on the travel guide about Donousa
How to get to the Small Cyclades
Since they are located in the eastern Cyclades it is a barren line and there are no daily routes from Piraeus port with the exception of Koufonisia. You can go easier from Naxos or Katapola, Amorgos with the Skopelitis the iconic ferry that connects the Small Cyclades islands daily. I went on a one-day trip from Katapola to Koufonisia and stayed there for 6 hours, more than enough time to swim and eat without including the cruise time.
On the upper deck you see a 360-degree view of the sea, but it is a small boat for the Aegean and it bounces badly so I do not recommend it for those who get seasick. I fell in a storm and the bouncing was incredibly intense and violent, to the point where I had to hold on to keep from falling from my seat. I didn't panic though, I think this is also an experience from the Aegean. You can ask about the winds before the ferry sets sail.
It doesn't transfer vehicles but the Small Cyclades are so small islands that getting to the beaches is done by boat. It's also a great opportunity to hike or cycle. The most convenient mean of transport is a motorbike.
3. Schinoussa
A deserted island with wild and untouched beauty that takes you back to the 70s. The laced coasts hide many wonderful sandy beaches more than you would expect for such a small island.
The access to the beaches is either through trails or by boat that starts from the port and goes around the island.
An iconic spot is the Chara cafe where all visitors stop for a photo and why not for a coffee. Chora is very small, all of it fits on one street.
Although Schinoussa is so small is a destination for flavours.
- Nikolas tis Schinoussas in the picturesque harbour with the boats for authentic seafood flavours by the sea. A second restaurant has also opened in Glyfada, Athens. Top dishes are the pasta with lobster and the delicious fava. The vegetables are from the garden. The view is also wonderful
- Kyra Pothiti traditional recipes with seafood and meat in a modern taste twist or in other words local creative cuisine. The quality of the ingredients is also very good. Specialties are the shrimp barley, goat with barley and Kyra Pothiti's moussaka
- Bizeli traditional food in a very nice courtyard. Everything you eat here is grilled. Speciality: lamb chops with tomato salad with fresh goat cheese, fava and zucchini meatballs
- Stis Akathis for appetizers on the wonderful Lioliou beach. The dishes are eaten with appetite after swimming: zucchini meatballs, calamari, tzatziki, eggplant saganaki, fried anchovies, lemon beef. The vegetables are from their garden
The hotels I recommend in Schinoussa are:
- (€€) Sohoros Suites (⭐ 9.6) in Chora in a peaceful location. Comfortable rooms beautifully decorated with a balcony with a wonderful view
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4. Iraklia
A deserted island with a mountainous landscape and two tiny settlements, Agios Georgios in the harbour and Panagia. The beaches are fantastic, accessible by the boat of Achilleas Vlavianos. It is also an opportunity to tour the steep slopes of the island.
Iraklia may not be a particularly attractive destination but it is a gastronomic destination because the best restaurant in the Small Cyclades is located here.
- Araklia culinary journeys into the cuisine of the Cyclades with a chef who has worked in Mykonos and has taken care to raise the level of cycladic cuisine. In other words I would call it cycladic creative cuisine with local ingredients. The dishes are masterpieces. Just a few of the specialties: striftoudia greek pasta with Mykonos louza, pancetta, Ios goat cheese, cheese dumplings with Naxos gruyere, Ios goat cheese in handmade lemon and tomato confit, greek karpeze: cortineze, Andros volaki, cherry tomatoes, basil, thyme, salt, ladenia from Kimolos, stuffed goat from Iraklia (traditional Easter recipe), Iraklia sheep fricassee with wild fennel and meatballs of beef and pork stir-fried in a pan, galactoboureko crispy filo roll pastry filled with vanilla semolina cream and drizzled with salted butter caramel sauce
- Akathi what is cultivated in the field goes to the table. Specialty is the monk (veal with eggplant), braised goat, lemony goat, cycladic salad with xynomizithra. On a balcony with a view
- Drosia in Panagia a full authentic experience in a tavern with a courtyard that composes an authentic cycladic image. Specialty is the braised goat of Iraklia, the lamb chops and the tomato salad with xynomizithra. The dishes it offers are few but very tasty
The hotels I recommend in Iraklia are:
- (€€) Maistrali (⭐ 9.4) rooms overlooking the bay of Iraklia just a short distance from the port
